Day 4
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Day 4: Monday 2nd December

Deserted Fatehpur Sikri with M.A.Khaaaaaaaan, multi-denominational decoration; Agra Fort and the 360 views of Taj Mahal.

This morning is a coach transfer to Agra. En route we are stopping at Fatehpur Sikri - the abandoned city & City Palace.

But first, we stop at what might be loosely described as a motorway service station - i.e. a shop and cafe. It is there that Fran, who has been getting progressively weaker through her illness, faints, and is eventually convinced to drink some sweet tea through the combined efforts of Jo, Clare and Carolyn.

Tea (and shopping) complete, we move on to the City Palace, where our guide M. A. Khaaaaan spoke beautifully and blessed everyone who gave a correct answer to his questions on the blend of Christianity, Islam, Hinduism, Judaism, and Buddhism melded into the fort (no-one got the 'sacred tree' right for Buddhism, I think: Cherry Tree). We see the 5-storied Panch Mahal ("probably a pleasure pavilion for the ladies of the harem" according to the itinerary) and the Pachisi Board in the centre of the courtyard (chess game with dancing girls as pieces) - but not the lotus pillar in the Diwan-i-khas (Hall of Private Audience).

Another adjacent courtyard(?) was more populated by current residents - there was a market, and a street market out the back with a 'funfair' for kids.

We return to the coach after bidding farewell to M. A. Khaaaan, and everyone gets a packed lunch courtesy of Clare and the hotel in Jaipur.

We arrive in Agra [p2, and also p3].

The Hotel Amar in Agra [and Agra p2] was a very Western affair; marble-like reception and restaurant (and rooms, for most) downstairs. There's a garden downstairs, too, which is housing a wedding tonight... that'll be nice to see...

We adopt cycleshaws for 2 days and head off for Agra Fort [and Agra Fort p2], which has 360 degree views including views down onto The Taj Mahal.

Some of the group (Caro, Carolyn, Alison, Susan) divert to the Baby Taj (Itimad-ud-Daulah) while the rest of us return to the hotel, where the gym instructor/masseur offers the ladies some relaxation and exercise... which is politely declined. We then all attempt to drink Lime Soda by the pool in spite of the mozzies while the wedding celebrations are constructed beside us on the lawn.

Dinner is at the hotel restaurant - we have an early start tomorrow at The Taj - and is thali for all. Then the evening starts... there's a sari sale upstairs (Carolyn buys a 300Rs, Andy buys a 450Rs for his girlfriend... to make curtains from...!), and the wedding celebrations kick off with a good throbbing beat. I'm sharing with Kirby tonight.

Some people from the group gate-crash the wedding (it doesn't take much!), while the rest of us peer discretely in from the side.

The night's a bit freaky for Alison and Carolyn because the wedding guests appear to walk 'through their room'; Fran has a bad night, too, (but I think because of temperature) and has to change room (she's sharing with Alex) at 1am.